I wouldn't usually consider Rei Kawakubo's direction for Comme des Garcons 'sexy' by any means, but there was something a little boudoir or cheeky about her latest fall collection. A first glance at a Comme collection can be a little bit confusing and over-conceptualised, but when you break down all of the references & avant-garde aesthetic, there is something quite real and appealing to these clothes. I like to think that her opening look to each collection is not a summary of the collection, but rather a blank canvas with a perspective of what she might consider.
This season's opening piece, a black python leather trench that was cut at the back to show a pair of ruffled knicker-like short-shorts. From there the designer moved into- sleeved capes with a tied bow at the front with barely anything covering the models chest; a trench with an infusion of different materials in black & an asian inspired print; skirts with mix-matched amount of prints with black ruffled hems in a refracted order; and closing with all-gold looks that sent a very different message to what was mainly produced, maybe linking something to do with money and the closing of the Tao label at CDG (who knows).
I like this collection, not love but like, as its modern appeal may not be new for Kawakubo, but it does seem more relevant to where trends have been heading this season, with a boy-masculine/ultra-feminine contrast,the vertical step-stone quality of some of the combinations is really nice.
